2020 has seen its share of viral chicken keeping content!
Then the summer of 2020 brought us both “chicknic tables” and “Chicken Daddies”…
I can’t help you guys with chicken daddies (I may have been told “no” 100 different ways when I simply informed my man that chicken daddies are even a thing) BUT he did volunteer to make some chicknic tables and let me publish his plans!
Looking for more chicken keeping tips and DIY projects?
Do you have backyard chickens? Are you dreaming of backyard chickens? You’ll love these articles and books:
What is a chicknic table?
A chicknic table is an adorable chicken-sized picnic table designed to hold chicken food or treats for your chickens.
Who invented the chicknic table?
Where can I get chicknic table plans?
Right here! We have plans, a supply list and step-by-step instructions to teach you how to make your very own chicken-sized picnic table feeder – AKA a chicknic table!
DIY Chicknic Table Supplies:
Some of the links below may be affiliate links where a purchase made after clicking will support this website without costing you extra!
PRO TIP: Use the links above to order everything you need for this project for curbside pick up at your local Home Depot
Should you use nails or screws to build your chicknic table?
We built two tables, two different ways while writing up the directions for this chicknic table tutorial.
The first table was a gift so we decided to use screws as they tend to be stronger and last longer – especially as the wood warps over time in the Pacific Northwest weather (read: rain!).
Because we used a countersink bit to drill the pilot holes, the screws are all nicely sunk and you could fill over the tops of the screws with wood putty to make a nicer finish where you can’t see the screws. This would be especially nice if you wanted to paint your finished chicknic table.
At the end of the day, I say use whatever tools you have at home but if you are making this as a gift the extra time and effort to drill pilot holes and use screws will make the table extra fancy.
Chicknic Table Plans Cut list:
Want a list of all the lumber cuts you will need to make in one place?
- 1 x 6 board
- 1 x 3 boards
- 24″ (cut 2)
- 12.5″ (cut 2)
- 15″ – with 45 degree angles – see step 3 for details (cut 4)
- 18 1/2″ (cut 2)
- 27″ (cut 2)
- 2 x 2 board
Chicknic Table Step-by-Step Directions:
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 1: Cut the top pieces
Cuts from the 1 x 6:
Cut two 24″ pieces of the 1 x 6 board.
Cuts from a 1 x 3:
Cut two 24″ pieces and two 12.5″ pieces of a 1 x 3 board
PRO TIP: Before turning the saw on, be sure the line up the blade just outside the pencil line so the cut piece is exactly the length marked.
PRO TIP 2: After cutting the first piece, use it as a template for cutting the second piece to make them the exact same size.
Sand the ends of the cut boards as needed.
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 2: Glue the top platform together
Lay the long sides of the two 1×6 boards together to find the way the boards fit together best (due to minor warping, one side may be more concave or convex than the other).
Once you have decided which sides to glue together, run a bead of glue down the 24″ length of the board.
Smooth the glue with a finger to cover the full side of the board.
Adhere the two boards together, being sure to line up the ends flush.
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 3: Cut the legs
Cuts from a 1 x 3:
The legs need to be cut with parallel 45 degree angles on each end.
Use your speed square or your miter saw as a guide to cut the very end off a 1×3 board at a 45 degree angle.
Measure 15″ down from the first 45 degree mark and mark a parallel 45 degree angle and cut.
After cutting this first leg, use it as a template to cut three more legs.
Sand the ends to clean them up as needed.
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 4: Cut the benches
Cuts from a 1 x 3:
Cut two 18 1/2″ pieces (braces) and two 27″ pieces (benches) of a 1 x 3 board.
Cuts from a 2 x 2:
Cut one 24″ piece (center brace) from the 2×2.
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 5: Assemble the top
After the boards you glued together in step 2 have been allowed to set for a minimum of one hour, you can assemble the top with the 24″ and 12 1/2″ 1×3 pieces you cut in step 1.
Unclamp the top platform and use a scraper and/or sand paper to remove any glue residue that leaked out of the seam.
Keep in mind while attaching the top frame pieces, that they need to extend both above and below the platform. The best way to do this evenly is to use a scrap piece of 1×3.
Hold the 1×3 scrap against the platform and then line up the edge of one of the 24″ pieces with the scrap like this:
Attach by either using the brad nailer or drilling holes with the countersink bit and then attaching with screws. Push down while attaching the pieces to get a tight join.
Repeat the same process on the other side to attach the other 24″ piece to the long side of the platform. This is what you will end up with:
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 6: Assemble the legs
Turn the top platform on its side so it is standing on the 12 1/2″ long side.
Line up the corners of two 45 degree angle leg pieces in the center.
Attach to the bottom frame with nails or screws using the countersink bit.
PRO TIP: Use the seam from gluing the top boards together as a centerline reference
Repeat on the other side so all four legs are now attached.
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 7: Assemble the benches
Attach one of the 18 1/2″ brace pieces on the outside of the table legs, 2 1/2″ down.
PRO TIP: Use a scrap piece of 1×3 to act as a spacer between the bottom of the frame and where you attach the board to the legs
Center and attach the second 18 1/2″ brace to the other side the same way.
To further increase the stability of the table, fit the 24″ center brace piece cut from 2×2, running the length of the table between the two braces. Secure with two screws or two nails on each end.
To attach the side benches, lay one of the 27″ bench pieces across the two braces at each end of the table and attach with two nails or two screws on each end. Repeat on the other side.
How to Build a Chicknic Table Step 8: Finishing
To prevent your chicknic table from flooding in the rain, use a 3/16″ or larger drill bit to drill holes in the corners of the top to help water drain off when wet.
Use your sander or sandpaper to sand all edges and ends smooth.
The table can be left as-is or painted or stained with a non-toxic food safe finish.
That’s it!
Fill your table up with food or treats and let your chickens enjoy!
If you love these chicknic table plans be sure to pin this tutorial to save it for later!
PRINTABLE CHICKNIC TABLE DIRECTIONS
DIY Chicknic Table – A picnic table for chickens!
Author: Carissa Bonham
Estimated cost: $15
prep time: 10 Mperform time: 1 H & 15 Mtotal time: 1 H & 25 M
Feed your backyard chickens in style with this adorable chicknic table. This tiny picnic table sized for chickens features a lip around the top to keep the food from spilling off as well as drain holes to allow rainwater to drain away.
materials:
- 1 x 6 lumber (4 feet needed)
- 1 x 3 x 8ft lumber (three 8-foot boards)
- 2×2 lumber (2 feet needed)
- Wood Glue
- Fasteners of choice (choose screws OR nails)
- #4 x 1 1/4″ wood screws (about 30 screws)
- 1 1/4″ brad nails
steps:
Cut and glue top of chicknic table
- Cut two 24″ pieces of the 1 x 6 board.
- Cut two 24″ pieces and two 12.5″ pieces of a 1 x 3 board.
- Sand the ends of the cut boards as needed.
- Glue the 1×6 pieces together by running a bead of glue down the 24″ length of the board.
- Smooth the glue with a finger to cover the full side of the board.
- Secure with clamps and allow to set for a minimum of one hour.
Cut legs and other pieces
- Cut legs from a 1×3 with 45 degree angles at each end. To do this, use your speed square or your miter saw as a guide to cut the very end off a 1×3 board at a 45 degree angle. Measure 15″ down from the first 45 degree mark and mark a parallel 45 degree angle and cut. After cutting this first leg, use it as a template to cut three more legs.
- Sand the ends to clean them up as needed.
- Cut two 18 1/2″ pieces (braces) and two 27″ pieces (benches) with straight ends from a 1 x 3 board.
- Cut one 24″ piece (center brace) from the 2×2.
Assemble the table
- After the 1×6 boards you glued together have been allowed to set for a minimum of one hour, you can assemble the top with the 24″ and 12 1/2″ 1×3 pieces you cut in step 1.
- Unclamp the top platform and use a scraper and/or sand paper to remove any glue residue that leaked out of the seam.
- Attach a 24″ side piece to the platform by either using the brad nailer or drilling holes with the countersink bit and then attaching with screws. Push down while attaching the pieces to get a tight join. (see full directions for tips on how to line this up evenly)
- Repeat the same process on the other side to attach the other 24″ piece to the long side of the platform.
- Attach the 12 1/2″ pieces on the ends, lining up the ends so the top is square.
- Turn the top platform on its side so it is standing on the 12 1/2″ long side. Line up the corners of two 45 degree angle leg pieces in the center on the underside. Attach to the bottom frame with nails or screws using the countersink bit. (see full directions for helpful pictures)
- Repeat on the other side so all four legs are now attached.
- Attach one of the 18 1/2″ brace pieces on the outside of the table legs, 2 1/2″ down. (see full directions for helpful tips on lining this up)
- Center and attach the second 18 1/2″ brace to the other side the same way.
- To further increase the stability of the table, fit the 24″ center brace piece cut from 2×2, running the length of the table between the two braces. Secure with two screws or two nails on each end.
- To attach the side benches, lay one of the 27″ bench pieces across the two braces at each end of the table and attach with two nails or two screws on each end. Repeat on the other side.
- Add drain holes with your drill fitted with a 3/16″ or larger drill bit to drill holes in the corners of the top.
- Use your sander or sandpaper to sand all edges and ends smooth.
- The table can be left as-is or painted or stained with a non-toxic food safe finish.
NOTES:
For helpful step-by-step photos, see the full article on the Creative Green Living website.
Copyright 2020, Creative Green Living
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About the Author:
The owner and lead writer at Creative Green Living, she is an award-winning blogger and most recently won the ShiftCon Media “Best Green Lifestyle Blogger” award in 2019.
She is also the author of several books including Proven Techniques for Keeping Healthy Chickens (Skyhorse, 2018), Beautiful Smoothie Bowls (Skyhorse, 2017) and The Little Green Book of Mothers’ Wisdom (Skyhorse, 2020).
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